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Welcome
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How To Page

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HOW TO PLANT

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HOW TO MEASURE

Gardening Shears

HOW TO PRUNE

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PLANT

4 easy steps to learn how to plant a tree.

How To Plant Trees

Preparation 

Before we can place the tree in the ground we must prepare for planting. When unloading the tree, insure you only hold the tree by the root ball, NOT by the stem or branches, this can cause unnecessary damage to the tree. To keep a clean work area place a board next to the area you will be planting in so that the soil can be kept off the grass. Make sure that the tree you are planting does well in the soil conditions you have. 

Digging

The next step is measuring the size of the root ball and digging a hole that's 1.5 to 2 times the diameter of the root ball. The depth of the hole should never be deeper than the root ball itself but actually around 5 cm above the soil. Do not remove the hessian, damage to the roots could be caused and it degrades into the floor over the course of a few years anyway. 

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Layer the bottom of the hole with compost and even fertiliser to help give the tree a head start.

Back Filling

After placing your tree into its desired hole we must begin back filling. Around half of the soil used to dig the hole can be put back in and the excess soil needs to be removed. Make sure you stomp the soil around the root ball until it's very compact, this will remove any air pockets allowing the roots to grow in all directions, whilst also helping the tree with stability. 

Anchoring

Most small trees will not need any form of anchor (up to 1.5 metres tall). Anchors are designed to hold your tree still from the weather. If the tree was to move the new root growth could be damaged and you'd also have a wonky tree in your garden. You can either use wooden stakes with ties to hold your trees or metal cables that are driven into the ground. 

All Done

You now know how to plant a tree. This method is universal and can be used for small or big trees, even hedging. Following these easy steps will give you a healthy tree that's sure to live a long, happy life. 

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MEASURE

How To Measure Trees

Height

Step 1

  • Hold a straight stick vertically in front of you, at arm's length, and line it up with the tree.

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Step 2

  • Move backwards or forwards until the stick appears to be the same height as the tree

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Step 3

  • Rotate the stick 90 degrees until it is horizontal, keeping one end of the stick in line with the base of the trunk, then ask a friend to stand in line with the other end of the stick, along the trajectory if the tree fell over and lay at right angle to your orientation.

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Step 4

  • Measure the distance between your friend and the base of the tree trunk and this will tell you the height of the tree.  

Using girth to estimate a trees age (roughly)

Step 1

  • Simply measure around the trunk of the tree (the girth) at about 1m from the ground. Make sure you measure to the nearest centimetre. 

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Step 2

  • Now divide the girth by the average growth rate of the tree you're measuring to give an estimated age in years.

  • For example: an English oak tree measuring 200cm around the trunk 1 metre up from the ground with an average growth rate of 3cm per year would equal:

  • 200 divided by 3 equals 66.6. Therefore the tree would be 66.6 Years Old.

Average Growth Rate

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Using girth to estimate a trees age (accurate)

Step 1

Measure the tree’s circumference at breast height. Average breast height, which is a forestry measurement, is 4 1⁄2 ft (1.4 m) from ground level. Wrap a fabric measuring tape around the trunk at this height, and note the tree’s circumference. Make sure you measure to the nearest centimetre. 

  • If the ground is sloped, measure 4 1⁄2 ft (1.4 m) from ground level on the uphill side, mark the spot, then do the same on the downhill side. The average breast height is the midpoint between the uphill and downhill measurements.

  • For a trunk that forks at a height less than 4 1⁄2 ft (1.4 m), measure the circumference just below the fork.

Step 2

Find the trunk’s diameter and radius. To find the diameter, divide the circumference by pi, or approximately 3.14. Then find the radius by dividing the diameter by 2.[2]

  • For example, if the circumference is 154 in (390 cm), the diameter is approximately 49 in (120 cm), and the radius is about 24 1⁄2 in (62 cm).

Step 3

  • Subtract 1⁄4 to 1 in (0.64 to 2.54 cm) to account for the bark. For tree species with thick bark, such as black oak, subtract 1 in (2.5 cm) from the radius measurement. Subtract 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) for species with thin bark, such as birch. If you’re not sure and just want a rough estimate, subtract 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the radius.[3]

  • Including the bark would add extra girth and throw off your measurements.

Step 4

Use nearby fallen trees to calculate an average ring width. Check around the tree in question for dead or fallen trees of the same species. If you find one with visible rings, measure the radius and count the rings. Then divide the radius by the number of rings to find the average ring width.[4]

  • Suppose there’s a nearby stump with a radius of 25 in (64 cm), and you count 125 rings. The average ring width would be 1⁄5 in (0.51 cm).

  • Growth rates vary by tree species and environmental conditions. The living tree you’re measuring probably grew at a rate similar to a tree of the same species that grew nearby.

  • You’ll plug your ring width measurement or, if there are no nearby stumps, an average growth rate into an equation to estimate the tree’s age.

  • Even if you have the average ring width, you can also use the average growth rate to estimate the age, then compare the results of the 2 methods.

Step 5 

Look up the species’ average growth rate, if necessary. If you can’t find any nearby stumps or felled trees, search online for the average growth rate for the species of the tree you’re measuring. Including your location in your search terms could yield more accurate results.[5]

  • In general, a tree is probably around 8-15 years old for every 1 ft (0.30 m) of trunk diameter. For instance, if the circumference of a tree is 6 ft (1.8 m) around, it's probably at least 50 years old if it's a hardwood.[6]

  • For example, oak, ash, beech, and sycamore trees grow about 1⁄2 to 3⁄4 in (1.3 to 1.9 cm) in circumference per year. If you don’t know the species, plug both 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) and 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) into your equation to guess an age range.

  • For a more accurate estimate, factor in the tree’s location. In open conditions, growth rates are usually greater, or 3⁄4 to 1 in (1.9 to 2.5 cm) per year. Growth tends to be slower in urban locations and crowded forests.

  • Be sure to check how the growth rate is calculated. Many sources base growth rates on how much the tree’s girth, or circumference, grows per year. However, you might find rates based on the average ring width of the radius.

Step 6

Divide the radius by the average ring width. If you used a nearby stump to calculate the average ring width, divide the radius of the living tree in question by the average ring width.[7]

  • Say that, excluding the bark, your tree has a radius of about 24 in (60.96 cm). Using a nearby tree stump of the same species, you calculated an average ring width of 0.20 in (0.508 cm).

  • Divide 24 (or 60.96) by 0.20 (or 0.508) to come up with an estimated age of 120 years.

Step 7

Divide the circumference by the average annual growth rate. If you found the average annual growth rate based on girth, or circumference, divide your tree’s circumference by the growth rate.[8]

  • Suppose your tree’s circumference is 154 in (391.16 cm), and its growth rate is between 0.75 and 1 in (1.905 and 2.54 cm) per year. Divide 154 (or 391.16) by 0.75 (or 1.905), then divide 154 (or 391.16) by 1 (or 2.54). Your estimated age range would be between 154 and 205 years old.

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PRUNE

How To Prune

Proper pruning promotes strong growth, increases flower and fruit production, improves plant health, and removes damaged limbs. Pruning at the right time and in the right way is critical, pruning should enhance the trees natural shape, health and longevity. 

Step 1

  • Wear protective gloves and, if necessary, eye and head protection

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Step 2

  • When cutting a stem, cut just above a healthy bud, pair of buds or side shoot. Where possible, cut to an outward-facing bud or branch to avoid congestion and rubbing of branches  

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Step 3

  • Make your cut 0.5cm (¼in) above the bud. Beware cutting too close, as this can induce death of the bud. Beware cutting too far from the bud, as this can result in dieback of the stub, and entry of rots and other infections

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Step 4

  • When removing large limbs, make an undercut first about 20-30cm (8in-1ft) from the trunk, and follow this with an overcut. This will prevent the bark tearing, leaving a clean stub when the branch is severed  

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Step 5

  • Then remove the stub, first making a small undercut just outside the branch collar (the slight swelling where the branch joins the trunk), followed by an overcut to meet the undercut, angling the cut away from the trunk to produce a slope that sheds rain

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Step 6

  • Avoid cutting flush to the trunk as the collar is the tree’s natural protective zone where healing takes place

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Step 7

  • There is no need to use wound paints, as they are not thought to contribute to healing or prevent disease. The exception is plums and cherries (Prunus species), where wound paint may be used to exclude silver leaf disease spores

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